Doing a Jedi outer tunic, I have always struggled with the “flare bottom” (or “skirt”). I have tried to follow a few tutorials, but the result never really matched my expectations (maybe I never managed to cut the pieces with the right measurements, and my sewing skills are not good enough to handle big projects…).
If you remember, a few years ago, my son wanted a pirate coat, and I accepted the challenge of doing one from scratch. After some research, I found a pattern copied from an original “Justaucorps” from 1750.
I was quite surprised at the simplicity of the pattern, and how beautifully the back of the coat would float, flare and wave. And I started to wonder if I could use this as a base for a OT. I needed to modify the pattern : first to overlap in the front, second to have a jedi collar, and finally, to have straight flaring sleeves.
once I was happy with the new pattern (I tried a mini version of it in a fabric scrap), I transferred the pattern, using a grid, to newspapers.
cut all the pieces. the fabric is a curtains/upholstery fabric, in 3yards width. the whole project took about 5 1/2 yard length.
and I did a zigzag on all borders to keep the fabric from unraveling.
started the assembly line:
the 2 parts of the back together…
then, the 2 front parts. I made sure everything was fitting.
The tunic is still long at this point, as I was not sure how to measure the length.
attached the sleeves:
Then, in the remaining fabric, I cut 4 strips for the tabards (width = shoulder + allowance for sewing, length was way too long, but I cut it later), one strip for the Obi (width = belt width + 2 inches + allowance for the seems), and one for the collar (width = about 3 inches + allowance for sewing).
I attached the collar around the neck and the front pieces.
At this stage, I cut the bottom straight (when the OT was worn), and did all the bottom seems, and the side of the front panels.
Obi and Tabards:
I always had problem with my previous costume, as the obi and tabards would not stay in place in a long troop. I therefore decided to fix these items as much as possible on this new one.
the Obi was very simple, I did it only one layered as I didnt want to add too much padding (and the heat in Singapore is terrible…).
For the tabards, I took the 4 strips I reserved, and started sewing them 2 by 2 around the edge (except one of the “small” sides).
I turned them inside out…
…iron them to make them flat…
…and I sew around the edge to give them a nice finish.
I attached the 2 tabards in the center of the back, until the shoulders. I sew the inside part or it, leaving the 2 outside parts floating. (please note that this is the same way Obi Wan wears his tabards. Feel free to add 2 portions below the Obi at the back if you want to!)
On the front, I folded and sewn the tabards to give the “Y” shape, and placed a button where they join to prevent them from moving when walking. all this will be hidden behind the Obi.
Finally, the Obi is sewn on top of the tabards, fixed in the middle of the back. it would go around the waist and be attached by a velcro to close when the OT is worn.